3. Memoirs and Interesting Adventures of an Embroidered Waistcoat (London: printed for and sold by J. Brooke, at the Golden Head, under St. Dunstan’s Church, Fleet-Street, 1751), 12.
4. Ibid., 13.
5. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 907–908.
11. Suits: All Hail Beau Brummell!
1. Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (New York: Free Press, 2006), 5.
2. Colleen Gau, “Conventional Work Dress and Casual Work Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
3. Bernhard Roetzel, Gentlemen (Cambridge: Könemann, 2004), 92–93.
4. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 113.
5. Ibid., 114–115.
6. Ibid., 115.
7. Nik Cohn, Today There Are No Gentlemen: The Changes in Englishmen’s Clothes Since the War (London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1971), 29–30.
8. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 896.
9. James Laver, Taste and Fashion: From the French Revolution Until Today (London: G. G. Harrap, 1937), 20–21.
10. Colleen R. Callahan, “Children’s Clothing,” in A – Z of Fashion.
11. Women’s Wear Daily, “Moment 11: Women Embrace Menswear,” November 1, 2010, www.wwd.com/eye/fashion/moment-11-women-embrace-menswear-3344600?navSection=issues.
12. Melissa Leventon, What People Wore When: A Complete Illustrated History of Costume from Ancient Times to the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society (New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2008), 154–155.
12. Pants: The Truth About Dress Reform
1. By the aptly named designer Amy Sly, www.buzzfeed.com/sly/am-i-wearing-pants.
2. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 15.
3. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 64–65.
4. Rosalie Kolodny, Fashion Design for Moderns (New York: Fairchild, 1968), 103.
5. Judith Thurman, “Closet Encounters: Charting the Rise of the Fashionable American Woman,” The New Yorker (May 10, 2010), www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2010/05/10/100510craw_artworld_thurman.
6. Joseph H. Hancock II and Edward Augustyn, “Pants, Trousers,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 10, Global Perspectives.
7. Key Moments in Fashion: From Haute Couture to Streetwear, Key Collections, Major Figures and Crucial Moments That Changed the Course of Fashion History from 1890 to the 1990s (London: Hamlyn, 1998), 101.
8. Shaun Cole, “Lesbian and Gay Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 8, West Europe.
13. Hosiery: From the Mayflower to the Bedroom Floor
1. Nan H. Mutnick, “Snapshot: Hosiery,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
2. Ibid.
3. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 927.
4. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 58.
5. Anne L. Macdonald, No Idle Hands: The Social History of American Knitting (New York: Ballantine Books, 1988), 3.
6. American Red Cross. The War-Time Manual: Describing the Organization, History, Works and Reliefs of the American Red Cross Society (Chicago: Service Publishers, 1917), 66.
7. Nan H. Mutnick, “Snapshot: Hosiery.”
8. http://ask.metafilter.com/15115/What-color-socks-should-I-wear-with-brown-shoes-and-blue-jeans.
14. Shoes: The World at Your Feet
1. Andrew Bolton, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011). Three examples: Eclect Dissect (autumn/winter, 1997–1998), red and black leather; La Dame Bleue (spring/summer, 2008), carved wood, leather, and silver beading; precollection (autumn/winter, 2006–2007) red silk embroidered with black and white silk thread.
2. Jan Glier Reeder, High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010), 227.
3. Illuminating Fashion, exhibit at the Pierpont Morgan Library.
4. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 37.
5. Ibid.
6. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 33.
7. Robert Selbie, The Anatomy of Costume (New York: Crescent Books, 1977), 20.
15. Athletic Wear: Attack of the Playclothes
1. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 983.
2. Richard Martin and Harold Koda, Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1989), 23.
3. Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion, Sportswear and the Image of Women in 1930s and 1940s New York (London: I. B. Tauris, 2009), 199; also “Dress Trade More Attentive to Resort Wear,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 11, 1938.
4. Judith Thurman, “Closet Encounters: Charting the Rise of the Fashionable American Woman,” The New Yorker (May 10, 2010), www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2010/05/10/100510craw_artworld_thurman.
5. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 58.
6. Bradley Quinn, “Sportswear,” in A – Z of Fashion.
7. Martin and Koda, Jocks and Nerds, 30.
8. Ibid., 28.
9. Ibid., 27.
10. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 60.
11. “History of the Bikini,” Time.com, http://www.time.com/time/photogallery/0,29307,1908353,00.html.
12. Marybelle S. Bigelow, Fashion in History: Apparel in the Western World (Minneapolis: Burgess, 1979), 295.
13. Patrik Alac, The Bikini: A Cultural History (London and New York: Parkstone Press, 2002), 21.
14. Ibid., 29.
15. Ibid., 31.
16. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast, Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages, ed. Sarah Hermsen, vol. 5 (Detroit: UXL, 2004), 854.
17. Alac, The Bikini, 32.
18. Jantzenswim.com.
19. Jane Pavitt, “Logos,” in A – Z of Fashion.
20. Martin and Koda, Jocks and Nerds, 121.
21. Pavitt, “Logos.”
22. Martin and Koda, Jocks and Nerds, 30.
17. Coats and Jackets: From Cavemen to Real Housewives
1. Liz Mellish, “Early History of Dress,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 9, East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus.
2. Quentin Bell quotes his hero Veblen, in On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 15.
3. Robert Selbie, The Anatomy of Costume (New York: Crescent Books, 1977), 15.
4. Stefano Tonchi, “Military Style,” in The Berg Companion to Fashion, ed. Valerie Steele (Oxford: Berg, 2010), 507.
5. Walking dress ensemble (1817–1820) image caption of white silk dress with bands and braiding, Berg Fashion Library.
6. Stefano Tonchi, “Military Style,” in The Berg Companion to Fashion, 507.
7. Ibid.
8. Julia Emberley, “Fur,” in A – Z of Fashion.
1. John Potvin, ed., The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800–2007 (New York: Routledge, 2009), 117.
2. Laurel Wilson, “Western Wear,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
3. James Laver, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2002), 23.
4. Ibid., 18–19.
5. Ibid., 15.
19. Gloves: The Long-Lost Love Token
1. C. Cody Collins, Love of a Glove: The Romance, Legends and Fashion History of Gloves and How They Are Made (New York: Fairchild, 1945), 10.
2. Ibid., 15.
3. Ibid., 13.
4. Ibid., 16.
5. Ibid., 24.
6. Ibid., 29.
7. Ibid., 76.
8. Ibid., 4.
9. Claire McCardell, What Shall I Wear? The What, Where, When and How Much of Fashion (New York: Simon & Schuster, 1956), 57.
20. Handbags: Enemy of the Pocket
1. Diana Vreeland, D.V. (1984), ed. George Plimpton and Christopher Hemphil (New York: Da Capo Press, 1997), 89.
2. Annie Groer, “Hermès v. Hermès,” The Washington Post, June 28, 2006, quoting March 2006, Scotland on Sunday interview with Jane Birkin, www.washington-post.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/06/28/AR2006062801276.html.
3. Michael Tonello, Bringing Home the Birkin:
My Life in Hot Pursuit of the World’s Most Coveted Handbag (New York: William Morrow, 2008), 152.
Conclusion: How to Shop with the Past, Present, and Future in Mind
1. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Henry Holt, 2000), 5.
2. Ibid., 34.
3. Leopoldina Fortunati, “Wearable Technology,” in Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 10, Global Perspectives.
4. Linda Grant, The Thoughtful Dresser: The Art of Adornment, the Pleasures of Shopping, and Why Clothes Matter (New York: Scribner, 2010), 10.
5. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery, rev. ed. (London: Hogarth Press, 1976), 21–22, quoting Isaiah 3:16–24.
6. Jan Glier Reeder, High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010), 220.
Когда мы только взялись за наше исследование, больше всего нам нравилось обращаться к большой «Энциклопедии костюма и мировой моды» издательства «Берг», вышедшей в 2010 году при поддержке «Оксфорд Юниверсити Пресс». Мы неоднократно справлялись об интересующих нас вопросах как в печатном варианте «Берга» в Нью-Йоркской публичной библиотеке, так и на сайте BergFashionLibrary.com (в издании содержится множество самых лучших печатных, онлайн – и фоторесурсов). Интернет-материалы доступны только после оформления подписки, однако если вас заинтересовал этот ресурс, можно узнать в местной общественной библиотеке, не оформлена ли подписка у них. Ниже приведен список использованных статей из «Энциклопедии…» с авторами:
Bye, Elizabeth K. “Nautical Style.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Chico, Beverly. “Headdress.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Cole, Shaun. “Lesbian and Gay Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 8, West Europe.
Cox, Caroline. “Lingerie.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Emberley, Julia. “Fur.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Evans, Grace. “Underwear.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 8, West Europe.
Friedel, Robert. “Zipper.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Gau, Colleen. “Brassiere.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Gau, Colleen, and Valerie Steele. “Corset.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Greatrex, Tom. “Waistcoat.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Hancock, Joseph H., II, and Edward Augustyn. “Pants, Trousers.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 10, Global Perspectives.
Juhasz, Esther. “Jewish Dress in Central and Southwest Asia and the Diaspora.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 5, Central and Southwest Asia.
König, Anna. “Neckties and Neckwear.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Lee, Mireille M. “Ancient Greek Dress.” In Berg Encyclo-pedia. Vol. 9, East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus.
Mellish, Liz. “Early History of Dress.”In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 9, East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus.
Mutnick, Nan H. “Snapshot: Hosiery.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
Parsons, Jean L. “Leisure.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
Pavitt, Jane. “Logos.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Quinn, Bradley. “Sportswear.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Rooijakkers, Gillian Tineke Vogelsang-Eastwood. “Egypt: Historical Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 1, Africa.
Sauro, Clare. “Boots.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Sewell, Dennita. “T-Shirt.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Stall-Meadows, Celia. “Accessories of Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
Tonchi, Stefano. “Military Style.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Tortora, Phyllis G. “Types and Properties of Fashionable Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia. Vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
Walford, Jonathan. “Shoes.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Walker, Myra. “Miniskirt.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Watkins, Susan M. “Fashion, Health, and Disease.”
In A – Z of Fashion.
Webber-Hanchett, Tiffany. “Bikini.” In A – Z of Fashion.
Wilson, Laurel. “Western Wear.” In Berg Encyclopedia.
Vol. 3, The United States and Canada.
We also looked at countless books and articles. (Our favorite scholar is the late James Laver, and we very much enjoy the Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion.) Here is a list of those:
Alac, Patrik. The Bikini: A Cultural History. London and New York: Parkstone Press, 2002.
American Red Cross. The War-Time Manual: Describing the Organization, History, Works and Reliefs of the American Red Cross Society. Chicago: Service Publishers, 1917.
Anawalt, Patricia Rieff. The Worldwide History of Dress. New York: Thames & Hudson, 2007.
Arnold, Rebecca. The American Look: Fashion, Sportswear and the Image of Women in 1930s and 1940s New York. London: I. B. Tauris, 2009.
Baclawski, Karen. The Guide to Historic Costume. London: Batsford, 1995.
Barthes, Roland. The Language of Fashion. Translated by Andy Stafford. New York: Berg, 2005.
Baseman, Andrew, ed. The Scarf. New York: Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 1989.
Batterberry, Michael, and Ariane Batterberry. Fashion: The Mirror of History. New York: Greenwich House, 1977.
